BOSTON, MA — This last sweep of November days, saturated grey, rain stroked, pendant, drove home my longing for France.
I am reminded of a year spent living in Paris. The same poetic grey streetlamps start to sputter their arms-wrapped- around-close glow at 4 in the afternoon.
A November more than 25 years ago.
If I let myself, I am walking down cobbled side streets, not far from La Sorbonne where I should be attending class. I’ve discovered a shoebox of a theater showcasing a week’s worth of Woody Allen movies. I’ve chosen my priorities.
Allen’s Another Woman had just been released, and its poignant expose of life, preservation, an ability– or rather its lack– to feel, is a must not the least due to several quotes, one of which catches me now:
“For here there is no place that does not see you”– Rainer Maria Rilke
Beaujolais, its own place, technically connected to Burgundy’s sweep — with much less the pomp and cost — was one of the first wines I was formally introduced to in France oh so many years ago.
Rilke’s quote makes me think of the southern most reach of Burgundy. Lesser known, not first seen.
The wines of Beaujolais are made from the grape Gamay, and although often overlooked, perhaps less so today, they deserve much attention. The soil in Beaujolais is predominately granite which offers a brilliant lace of mineral, alongside the depth of, generally speaking, deep ripe plums. Charismatic, versatile, brilliant quaffing wines, equally so with holiday fare.
There are 10 Crus in Beaujolais: Moulin-A-Vent, Morgan, Fleurie, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Julienas, St Amour, Chiroubles, Regnie, and Chenas. Some Crus produce playful, ready to drink now and don’t wait wines, and some offer age worthy styles. Two favorite Crus of mine are Morgan and Fleurie: Morgan for its depth and ability to age, and Fleurie for its fresh, poetic grace.
So for this weekend, here are two favorites:
Anne-Sophie Dubois, L’Alchemiste, Fleurie, 2014, perfume and poise @ $23
Jean-Marc Burgaud, Javernieres, Morgan, 2014-age worthy; girth and grace @ $27