The Perfect Wine For These Cooler Summer Nights by Paige Farrell

BOSTON, MA — On Monday, autumn sat down quite pointedly, in the middle of summer. Wednesday, we had a brief, gracious return to the warmth of summer’s breath. And then yesterday, autumn frisked about again, reclaiming her territorial whisper.

There have been early sights of premature foliage too; a few trees along Commonwealth Ave. in Newton are peppered with a handful of their green leaves turning red, and up in the hills behind the Cleveland Circle reservoir, spied, discreet patches of yellow, coming to life, scattered about, begging we take notice.

The weather’s temperament, decidedly temperamental, coaxes me to the ocean’s edge. Cape Ann is blessed with and captivated by a precious light, and so to the light I travel.

In the fall, the sky quiets and stretches long around the Ipswich Bay bend, Annisquam to Lanesville to Rockport, finishing with a grandiose sweep along Good Harbor Beach, giving a salute to Fort Point before hasting out to sea. Artists flock here, and for good reason-Hopper, Homer, Avery, Jankowski, back in the day.

Summer will continue, and we’ll resume our love of rosé, but let’s pause and think of a red wine that crosses the seasons, celebrates autumn, and is enjoyable too, in July.

There is a wonderful, seasonal restaurant in Annisquam, a little inlet of Gloucester, called The Market. The wine list is fantastic, the setting, view, ambiance, perfection. The food is delicious too.

The sun didn’t quite present in full, but her rays graced quiet shadows here and there, enough to gift the sky streaks of pale pink and purple as it set. The minimalist’s pause.

It was cool enough for cashmere, and hence Burgundy was on order. A favorite small production red, from the close knit family behind Domaine des Rouges-Queues in Sampigny les Maranges, is and was perfection.

Harvesting in several appellations in Burgundy, on offer at The Market is their 100% Pinot Noir from Santenay. The region of Santenay is located just south of Chassagne-Montrachet in the Côte de Beaune.

Easy drinking, and pure grace, clean, with just enough tannin to offer backbone, a touch ferrous, bright fruit yet cool. A very pretty and accessible Red Burgundy for a reticent summer night.

2014 Domaine des Rouges-Queues Santenay Burgundy France, find it at The Market Restaurant, Gloucester, Savour Wine Shop. Retails @ $45.

Equally lovely, perhaps flighty although pretty, try the Bourgogne Rouge ‘Envol’, retails @ $28. Imported by Mise Wines.